Monday, 7 May 2012 - Amazon Leaps Into High End of the Fashion Pool
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SEATTLE =97 Amazon is so serious about its next big thing that it hired
three women to do nothing but try on size 8 shoes for its Web reviews.
Full time.
The online retailer is shooting 3,000 fashion images a day in a photo
studio using patent-pending technology.
And it is happily losing hundreds of millions of dollars a year on
free shipping =97 and, on apparel, even free returns =97 to keep its
shoppers coming back.
Having wounded the publishing industry, slashed pricing in electronics
and made the toy industry quiver, Amazon is taking on the high-end
clothing business in its typical way: go big and spare no expense.
=93It=92s Day 1 in the category,=94 Jeff Bezos, Amazon=92s chief executive,
said in a recent interview. Though characteristically tight-lipped on
bottom-line details, Mr. Bezos said the company was making a
=93significant=94 investment in fashion to convince top brands that it
wanted to work with them, not against them.
The traditional retail world =97 and many major brands that want no part
of Amazon =97 are gearing up to fight for their lives.
=93It has the latitude to set prices and charge whatever it wants,=94
Sucharita Mulpuru, an analyst for Forrester Research, said of Amazon.
=93That is a huge threat for brands.=94
Amazon has sold clothing for years. But recently it has focused on
signing on hundreds of contemporary and high-end brands, including
Michael Kors, Vivienne Westwood, Catherine Malandrino, Jack Spade and
Tracy Reese, and it continues to prowl for more. On Monday, some of
Amazon=92s muscle was on display as the company sponsored, and
live-streamed, the Costume Institute Benefit at the Metropolitan
Museum of Art and the accompanying exhibit. Mr. Bezos, the event=92s
honorary chairman, said that he was advised by Anna Wintour, Vogue=92s
editor, to wear a pink pocket square with a Tom Ford tuxedo (which is
not available on Amazon). He did so.
Amazon=92s decision to go after high fashion is about plain economics.
Because Amazon=92s costs are about the same whether it is shipping a $10
book or a $1,000 skirt, =93gross profit dollars per unit will be much
higher on a fashion item,=94 Mr. Bezos said, and it already makes money
on fashion. While its MyHabit site, started last year, uses a
flash-sale model to compete with Gilt Groupe, Mr. Bezos says the
company=92s new effort is not about selling clothes at deep discounts
but at prices that ensure that =93the designer brands are happy.=94
Amazon has not just size on its side but money. The company has about
$5.7 billion in cash and marketable securities, and Mr. Bezos has long
taken a stance that investing in the business is the best place to use
it. The company can afford to do things that some competitors cannot,
like hire a bevy of stylists for the Web site models or investigate
replacing the plain brown shipping box with a fancier package for
clothes.
Until now, fashion has been one of the few categories that Amazon has
tried to dominate without success. In addition to its own site, Amazon
bought the shoe site Zappos.com for more than $1 billion in 2009,
started the shoe site Endless.com and MyHabit, and bought the boutique
Shopbop in 2006.
But many brands stayed away because they said Amazon=92s site often
looked too commoditized. =93It=92s not a place where you look at it and
are like, =91Oh, my clothes look and feel really good,=92 =94 said Andy
Dunn, founder of the men=92s fashion brand Bonobos, which does not sell
through Amazon.
Amazon hopes to fix that problem by going luxe. Mr. Bezos said
Amazon.com=92s initial forays into the high end had helped raise apparel
sales by triple digits.
Amazon=92s considerable computing capability, for example, has been
turned to fashion and the analysis of enormous amounts of shopping
data. The company has also made a =93disproportionate=94 investment in
photography, said Cathy Beaudoin, the president of fashion for Amazon.
The photography studio, in Kentucky, can shoot more than two images a
minute, allowing the company to post new items daily on the Web that
were photographed hours earlier.
Most of all, the company is working to improve its presentation, so
far most evidently on MyHabit, which Mr. Bezos said represented where
Amazon wanted to go with all of its Web design for fashion.
Instead of static product images, for example, models spin and pose to
show off the clothing. The model=92s body measurements and the clothing
measurements are provided to help with sizing. And shopper-friendly
advice =97 does the size 8 shoe run big or small? =97 is prominent.
The ramp-up has created buzz as the company has hired models, stylists
and makeup artists, started using customer data to personalize brand
and size search results, and run the first advertisement campaign
ever, in print and outdoors, for the Amazon clothing store.
In the retail clothing world, fears are growing that few will be able
to compete with a stepped-up Amazon.
For some brands, the company=92s size alone makes an overture from
Amazon difficult to reject. =93The amount of eyeballs and traffic and
retail dollars that are generated through their Web site=94 is
impressive, said Alex Bhathal, co-president of Raj Manufacturing,
which makes licensed swimwear brands like Ella Moss.
Amazon can also offer brands more attractive terms than many other
stores. For instance, Amazon does not ask for =93markdown money=94 when
items do not sell, or return unsold product to a brand, said Ron
Friedman, an accountant at Marcum L.L.P. who advises brands like James
Perse and American Rag.
And to woo brands, Amazon is willing to make big buys. Jason Cauchi,
the creative director of Dallin Chase, had been selling some
merchandise to Amazon=92s Shopbop. Recently Amazon said it would buy
items from the entire collection, which Mr. Cauchi said was a rare
offer and difficult to refuse.
A retailer like Amazon would typically pay brands a wholesale price
for clothes, then set the retail price itself (although more powerful
brands often mandate a minimum retail price).
While brands sell some of the same items to different stores, they are
increasingly developing exclusive colors or styles to avoid
price-comparison issues. =93A manufacturer does not want to kill a
business, and the best way to kill a business is to have the same
product selling for less on Amazon,=94 Mr. Friedman, the retail
accountant, said.
But Mr. Bezos said that, despite having taken a low-price approach in
other industries, Amazon would not in fashion. =93There=92s a
sophisticated markdown cadence in the fashion industry that we think
makes sense and we=92re basically following that established approach,=94
he said.
There are many disbelievers, given Amazon=92s history in other
industries. Mr. Bezos, moreover, has to deal with the fact that he is
no fashion guy. Asked in the interview about the brands he was
wearing, Mr. Bezos could not name the brands of his shirt or shoes,
which he said he bought in New York years ago. The jeans, he said,
were Prada (not available on Amazon); his blue =93Jeff=94 security badge
was dangling from them.