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As violence ebbs, Baghdad revives a watery romance
By HAMZA HENDAWI,Associated Press Writer AP - Thursday, September 10
BAGHDAD - Men in shorts splash in its murky brown waters or hop onto pleasure boats that blare sexy Iraqi pop songs. Lovers meet by its banks or take a short nighttime cruise, some even defying the rules of conservative Baghdad to steal a quick kiss in the dark.
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During the sectarian violence of 2006-2007, the Tigris River that cuts through the capital was a virtual front line between Sunnis on the west bank and Shiites on the east. It was here, in a river whose name has traditionally evoked poetry and love, that death squads dumped their victims.
Nowadays, as the violence has eased, increasing numbers of Baghdadis are casting aside bad memories and embracing the river like a long-lost friend.
But with bombings still claiming lives, some visitors to the river are circumspect.
"Come on, don't be scared," Nasser, who goes by only one name and operates a pleasure boat in the northern district of Azamiyah, told a family wondering whether it was safe to take a cruise. "There are bombs and explosions on the streets. Enjoy the day, who knows what will happen tomorrow?"
"Beautiful girl, what brings you to Azamiyah?" crooned the voice in a song playing at top volume from Nasser's cell phone.
Riverside parks are packed with families late into the evenings. Young men dance and sing to the beat of drums, eyeing the women nearby.
The fishermen are back too, three years after their business was hurt by an unfounded rumor that clerics had banned consumption of Tigris fish because they supposedly fed on human flesh.
"We were horrified during those times," recalled Fuad Shaker, 65, a photographer who has spent much of his adult life taking black-and-white pictures of the river.
"Every time I look at the Tigris, I think of the fishermen and my own childhood, but also the suffering we have all endured through the years," said Shaker, who is exhibiting his work this month in a show called "Memories of a City and a River."
Tigris is the name known to the West, from ancient Persian and Greek. Iraqis call it Dijlah. In the Old Testament it's the Hiddekel.
The Tigris is said to have inspired a Muslim ruler 1,200 years ago to build Baghdad on its banks as the capital of his young empire. And it was the river, legend has it, that bore the marks of the 13th century Mongol invasion. The Mongols, eager to remove all traces of the Abbasid dynasty, reputedly turned the waters red with blood and black with the ink of books.
Today the health of the 1,900-kilometer (1,180-mile) Tigris and the Euphrates, the other great biblical river that crosses Iraq, ties into the country's own economic health. Dams in Turkey and Syria reduced the flow in the 1,200 kilometers (750 miles) of Tigris that passes through Iraq, and now drought is adding to the shortfall and forcing the country to import food that it used to grow for itself.
The reduced flow is evident in the muddy islands along the 11-mile stretch, up to 200 meters (yards) wide, that snakes through Baghdad.
The war, and the international sanctions that preceded it during Saddam Hussein's rule, have added pollution to the Tigris' woes. Sewage and industrial waste pour into its waters untreated because the urban drainage and cleaning system is damaged and neglected.
The river provides Baghdad with its entire supply of potable water. Although it goes through purifiers, many Baghdadis boil tap water or stick to the bottled stuff.
George Friedoun, 64, used to fix air conditioners and now spends his retirement fishing in the Tigris. On a fiercely hot day, soda cans, food trays and water bottles floated past him. On shore were bits of a black rubber hose, empty cigarette packets, iron rods and an empty liquor bottle. Teen brothers Hussein and Sajid Hassan were in the water, diving repeatedly to surface with handfuls of filthy sand.
"What are the people thinking?" Friedoun said. "If we are eating and drinking from the river, why are we Iraqis throwing trash in it?"
"The Tigris is a sorry sight these days," said Manal Mahmoud, a 42-year-old schoolteacher picnicking with her husband and four children in a riverside park. "Still, many people come here to reminisce about their childhood," she said.
Qassim al-Sabti, a painter who grew up in Azamiyah, said the riverbanks until recently had fruit trees and huts made of palm branches for shade.
"The Tigris has always been the lungs of the city," al-Sabti said. Even the loss of several friends to drowning during his teens never dulled his love for the river, he said.
A cruise passes long stretches of 6-foot-tall reeds that dull the city's noise and create the illusion of being in the countryside. An occasional cool breeze feels like a small miracle in the blistering heat.
But the memories of floating bodies, some mutilated, some with a bullet in the head, are never far.
Fisherman Majeed Hamza says he would come across four or five bodies a day during the worst of the sectarian violence.
"Still, I never stopped working in the river. Being in the water is addictive."
___
Associated Press writer Sameer N. Yacoub contributed to this report.
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