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Burberry to close star-studded London Fashion Week
AFP - Wednesday, September 23
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Models walk down the catwalk wearing clothes by Pringle for the Spring/Summer 2010 collection on the fourth day of the London Fashion Week.
LONDON, (AFP) - – Burberry returned to London Fashion Week on Tuesday as the final headline act for the event, which has seen a star-studded turnout in honour of its 25th birthday.
The British fashion house is showing its main collection, Prorsum, eschewing its usual home of Milan to celebrate London's anniversary alongside other returning British brands such as Matthew Williamson and Pringle of Scotland.
They have created a buzz that has been lacking from events in the past, exemplified by the presence of Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of American Vogue, here for the first time since September 2007.
Wintour was at Pringle of Scotland's debut in London on Monday night to watch a sophisticated but edgy collection, which focused on delicate knit dresses based around colours found in the Scottish Highlands.
A bright yellow, loose-knit, thigh-skimming dress was laid over a pebble grey shift, another mini dress had vertical stripes and ribbing in soft, sandy taupes, while pleated, structured skirts were a nod to traditional kilts.
"We are unbelievably excited about our move back to London," said Clare Waight Keller, creative director of the 190-year-old knitwear label.
"It is a very important year for fashion in London and we're proud to be returning to such a creative capital."
Sunday saw Matthew Williamson make his return to the capital, which he has rejected in favour of New York for the past seven years with the exception of a one-off show featuring Prince for the 10th anniversary of his label in 2007.
His spring/summer 2010 collection was typically colourful, ranging from grey to flourescent pink, and enhanced by intricate beading, metallic fabrics and shards of mirrors that created a strong, sexy, sophisticated look.
"This is where it all began for him, it's where it all began for a tremendous amount of designers, going right back to the days of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen," said Daily Telegraph fashion editor Hilary Alexander.
She told AFP at Williamson's show that it was "wonderful" so many big names had decided to come back and celebrate London Fashion Week's 25th birthday.
Antonio Berardi, who was born in Britain to Sicilian parents, also made his comeback to London with a catwalk show this season, as did British-Brazilian duo Clements Ribiero, who held a presentation on Tuesday.
But it was not only the returning heroes who made waves this week.
Vivienne Westwood proved she remained the grande dame of fashion with a star-studded show on Sunday night that showcased her Red Label's usual blend of punky, irreverent glamour with an added British element for the anniversary.
Her clothes were modelled around traditional British prints, many of them with the appearance of men's shirts customised into sexy dresses.
Westwood always uses unconventional looking women in her shows -- last season saw fifty-something Jo Wood, then the estranged wife of Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood, take to the catwalk.
But this variety of models remains unusual, which explains the stir caused by Mark Fast, an up-and-coming designer known for his delicate but highly-revealing knits, when he chose three larger models for his collection.
One of his stylists left Saturday's show because of the casting, explaining later that the bigger models did not have the "right walk", in a row which reignited the debate about the size and health of fashion models here.
Fast was widely applauded for his move, but it was far from a trend in London, where the vast majority of the models working here remain tiny.
Fashion week continues for another day with the menswear collections, but most of the international press and buyers will by that point be in Milan, whose fashion shows start on Wednesday.
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